Insight into the world of Suits
Insight into the world of Suits
Click Here to Buy Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion by Alan Flusser
Click Here to Buy Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men’s Dress by Alan Flusser
“He got a thing for that cannon, but he prefers the revolver because the autos be jamming… He don’t go nowhere without it , you wont catch him slippin……..Squeeze first ask questions last, that’s how most of the so called gangsters pass”—–Littles from “The New 41st Side” with an interpolation from B.I.G. (G Manifesto Certified underground track of the week)
Lately, The G Manifesto has been in a holding pattern. I have been busy fielding different business opportunities, meeting with my father and Godfather, and planning big moves for 2006. The Manifesto is now back and in full effect. This weeks G Manifesto tip is going to give you more insight into the world of fashion. This installment is a part II of sorts to “Demystifying the Top Fashion Designers”, which is one of the most popular Manifestos of all time. After being constantly bombarded with questions like: “What about Valentino?”, “Have you ever heard of Etro?” and “I am going to a new club opening in NYC in the Meat Packing District, what kind of suit should I wear?” I realized that I should give some more insight:
Valentino:
The Valentino fashion house was created by Valentino Garavani back in the early 1960’s. Based out of Rome it has become a bellwether epitomizing Rome’s Style. His design pedigree is unrivaled and he even designed the dress that Jacqueline Kennedy wore to her wedding. More importantly, a Valentino suit is like an all-access pass to nightlife. No more dealing with “Are you on the list?” from some jerkoff bouncer when you’re wearing a Valentino. Also, very good for picking up on American Socialite girls and Hollywood actress girls (the high-end ones). Luxurious materials. Understated yet dope. Elegant, sharp, and beautiful. Look to spend about $3000 (pretty cheap actually).
Click Here to Buy Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion by Alan Flusser
Click Here to Buy Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men’s Dress by Alan Flusser
Bottega Veneta:
Bottega Veneta was also founded in the early 1960’s. Known more for high-end leather goods, Bottega Veneta can put together a good suit. Their ready to wear line runs about $2800 to $4500. These suits are good for a smugglers night out on the town but also look good with accessories like pocket squares or a 12 gauge Mossberg. The fabrics are so light that you might feel you are floating on air during a beautiful Barcelona day with a clear azure sky in deepest summer. Jet set smooth.
Oxxford:
Oxxford is a Chicago based company founded in 1916 by Louis and Jacob Weinberg. Many traditionalists swear by these Made in America suits known to be very sharp and Conservative. On a negative note, George Bush wears Oxxford. On a positive note, Al Capone used to wear Oxxford. . So you could say Oxxford’s clientele has really gone downhill. Seams are hand cross-stitched for durability. Fortunately, not much has changed quality wise over the years. Good suits to make a biz deal in. Or in brokering a deal between a Casino and an online Gaming portal. Good for big money deals. Price range $3000- $15000.
Cerruti 1881:
Cerruti 1881 was started by Nino Cerruti, and is notable because this is where Giorgio Armani got his start. Many sources of mine say these suits have lost some of their quality. I also know a jackass that swears by these suits, so I don’t wear any.
J. Press
Another American company that was started in the early 1900’s in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Very Ivy League and conservative. Notable because J. Press helped create the “Sack Suit” look. Good for white shoe lawyers, and finance guys. This is the kind of stuff Blue Blood kids wear at a country club mixer. Not really G Manifesto material but worth noting. Maybe good if you want to infiltrate a puritan high-society gig. Or maybe if you are pitching a mark on a pump and dump stock deal, so you appear “trustworthy”. I have a few of these for similar reasons. Off the rack about $550. Custom, a few G’s.
Jay Kos
Jay Kos is a New York based clothier. Known for delivering Upper East Side Style, these are great suits for Hollywood agents or picking up an envelope of money. Can be pretty fashion forward, as Puffy is known to bust these suits. In fact, years ago when I was drinking champagne with Puff in a vip at Club NV in New York, he was wearing Jay Kos. Met some butter pecan girls that night….worked out well. Price is going to be $3000 and up.
Ralph Lauren
Ralph Lauren makes stupid shirts and Cargo pants, so obviously it’s not G Manifesto Certified. And I am not Paul Wall, but I will put my money where my mouth is, Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label can be good for certain situations. The Purple Label is good for fundraisers and business meetings. Not bad for the Yacht Club either. Some of their lighter colored fabrics might not be bad for a Polo Match, or eating some shrimp cocktails outdoors, or better yet, some Florida Stone Crabs. Real conservative with a British flair. Cost: $3000 to $10000.
Etro
Etro (no relation to ex-graffiti artist now urban clothing designer Marc Ecko) was started in 1968 as a textile house. Known for producing elegant fabrics with beautiful prints, the main gun has always been Giacomo Etro. Kean Etro is now the main men’s designer and a good guy to know (maybe I can introduce you). Known for beautiful color usage and multi-tiered inspirtation. Good suits for dealing with younger girls and fashion forward big-city cosmopolitan girls. Not bad to wear on a bean deal for style points. Or a ruby deal in Burma. Maybe even a poppy seed deal in the Golden Triangle (Laos, Thailand and Myanmar aka Burma…for those of you without a globe.) Pants are almost always flat-front. Cost about $1900.
Click Here to Buy Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion by Alan Flusser
Click Here to Buy Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men’s Dress by Alan Flusser
Sartoria Domenic Caraceni
There are only about 700 Caraceni’s made per year under the skills of Gianni Campagna. Caraceni is based in Milan and spends about 64 hours for each suit it busts out by hand. Kiton and Brioni take about 12 hours to make a jacket as a comparison. Obviously with all these man hours, these suits don’t come cheap. Although based in Northern Italy, the style is very influenced by Savile Row. The craftsmanship is unparalleled. These suits are for the pros. Henry Kravis wears Caraceni. This is Forbes 400 stuff. Leveraged buyout stuff. Getting a Presidential Pardon stuff. Getting Katz Deli Pastrami shipped to you, wherever you are type stuff. Something to slip on after heisting a Gauguin and exchanging it for cash and having a celebratory drink with a girl named Anastasia type stuff. I don’t have to tell you that I wish they made more than 700 per year. Cost $4200 to $19000 and up.
I don’t have to mention which suits I prefer (I will give you a hint, it’s the last one). These tips should really help get your wardrobe together for this year as South Beach is in full swing right now, and Summertime in Europe and the Racetrack is right around the corner. Remember however, everything comes down to personal style and taste. As Georges-Louis Leclerc once said “The style is the man” or better yet, “The style is the G”……….The Rest is Up to You………..
Click Here to Buy Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion by Alan Flusser
Click Here to Buy Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men’s Dress by Alan Flusser
Side Note:
Killah Priest is busting the sickest flow right now….peep him.
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Michael Porfirio Mason
AKA The Peoples Champ
AKA The Dandy
The Guide to Getting More out of Life
http://www.thegmanifesto.com
(Want to see something in The G Manifesto? Send suggestions to thegmanifesto@yahoo.com)
19/03/2006 at 10:41 pm Permalink
I never thought I would like guys in suits before you.
20/03/2006 at 12:50 am Permalink
I wish you would take me out on a date and wear one of your suits.
22/03/2006 at 3:31 pm Permalink
excellent info as usual. this is stuff you just cant get anywhere else
22/03/2006 at 3:33 pm Permalink
I like oxxford I have a few myself. The G Manifesto is a great resource. I wore an oxxford with a Zegna Tie and Kiton Shirt and got a upgrade at hotel gansevoort in NYC.
25/03/2006 at 8:54 pm Permalink
What’s with all the off-the-rack names? If I cared that much about suits I wouldn’t be buying any of these designers; I’d be getting them custom made, or at least made to measure, from a good tailor.
28/03/2006 at 1:10 am Permalink
I am really liking Etro, but my favorite is Zegna, for buisness and girls, but Kiton always works well. Keep writing! The G Manifesto, loved the one on how to meet the girl of your dreams.
28/03/2006 at 7:05 pm Permalink
Valentino suits is my favorite but I love Canali ties. The Peoples Champ!
03/04/2006 at 2:24 pm Permalink
I love J Press Suits. And Oxxford. But J press suits are my favorite. My favorite manifesto is How to get the girl of your dreams
24/04/2006 at 4:04 pm Permalink
the pocket square is the new tie
26/04/2006 at 7:20 pm Permalink
I love men in Gianni Campagna suits
25/05/2006 at 2:32 pm Permalink
I wish all guys knew as much as you.
31/05/2006 at 3:50 pm Permalink
have you seen the satorialist website? its great.
04/06/2006 at 11:35 pm Permalink
What about Sophmore NYC?
05/06/2006 at 12:03 am Permalink
great insight…ha ha
31/10/2006 at 5:40 pm Permalink
Caraceni suits are the best. I also travel in givenchy suits.
11/11/2006 at 1:47 am Permalink
ETRO
A passion for wild stripes, proud plaids, and crisp colors unites La Famigla Etro, a fashion dynasty in the making
Big brothers are supposed to supply their younger siblings with all the firsts in life, from their first butt-whupping to their first six-pack. Kean Etro, head menswear designer at his family’s namesake fashion label, is indebted to his older brother for a weightier initiation—his first big break. “Jacopo was the one who pushed me to get the menswear job,” Kean says with a laugh. “He told my father, ‘Kean is not really a dickhead. You can trust him; he has good taste.’ ” Sage advice. In the past decade and a half, Etro has grown from a family-run textile shop to a prominent fashion force, thanks in no small part to Kean’s bold designs.
—C.R.
18/12/2006 at 4:32 pm Permalink
just got a two color pinstripe etro. kean etro is an unbelievable designer
22/12/2006 at 9:44 pm Permalink
did you read Alan Flusser On Thom Browne?
20/01/2007 at 6:07 am Permalink
Has anybody got an inkling as to where I might find more information on the history of Oxxford? I’m just about fed up with searching.
14/06/2007 at 8:53 pm Permalink
great commentary. I love guys in valentino suits.
14/06/2007 at 8:55 pm Permalink
i prefer a two button jay kos, pinstripes
14/06/2007 at 9:01 pm Permalink
i like caraceni suits way more than jay kos. better fit, better cut
18/07/2007 at 6:26 pm Permalink
just got a valentino suit. already it has paid for itself.
20/07/2007 at 7:08 pm Permalink
Why would you spend that money on a Caraceni? If you’re willing to fork out $4200+ on a suit you’re already in the lower end range of a bespoke Savile Row suit. Anyone paying that kind of money for off the peg should have his head examined.
05/09/2007 at 4:14 pm Permalink
I always wear Etro suits. great fit off the peg.
03/10/2007 at 11:07 pm Permalink
I agree, Etro suits are fat. Michael, you should do a profile on Etro.
03/10/2007 at 11:07 pm Permalink
Jay kos makes good ties also.